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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. But, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.